ShrimpKey – make your own MakeyMakey – part 3

Date: 13 August 2013 Author: Sjoerd Dirk Categories: ShrimpKey 2

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If you haven’t read part 1 and/or part 2, please go back!

I have a new version of the ShrimpKey. The new version has almost the same (and more) features than the MaKey MaKey. I also have PCB’s, these are on sale in the webshop on my corporate website iQMaak. Due to a busy schedule I don’t have time to blog it. Hopefully it will be online before the end of October. 

Making the ShrimpKey-shield

Grab the other half of the stripboard (the one of 17 holes width).

The design

Download the PDF with the design (also in black-and-white for printing).

This is the top side (the non-copper side) of the Shrimp-shield. Almost all components are placed here and you solder them at the bottom side (the copper side).
I will mention some of the components. On the photos you can see the rest of them:

• R1 = 10 MΩ resistor
• R2 = 68 Ω resistor
• R3 = 2.2 kΩ resistor
• R4 = 100 Ω resistor
• Z1 = 3.6 V Zener-diode (max. 0,5 W)
• L1 = LED

We don’t place the pin-strips on the top side, but on the bottom side!

This is the bottom side of the ShrimpKey-shield. The white circles are the places you have to solder. The yellow squares mark the places where the copper has to be cut.

The bottom side once again, but now without the components (except the pin strips, because they’re placed on the bottom side). On this one it’s easier to count and to check if you did everything right.

Let’s get started

Start with the most difficult job: slide the plastic of the pin-strips to the end of the pins. Place the pin-strips upright on a hard surface (DON’T use the antique cupboard of your parents, because this will make dents) and press (with your nails) the plastic down.

Look at the photo, your pin-strips should resemble the pin-strip on the right.

Place the pin-strips from the top-side in the stripboard and solder them at the bottom side.

Watch out! DON’T cut them.

Also solder the connectors (except the one at the bottom edge, that one we’ll solder later).

Cut the copper on the marked places. The easiest way to do this is with a drillbit (for metal) of 3,5mm width. Place it on the hole which has to be cut and turn it a couple of times (as seen on the first photo).

For the USB-connector you have to cut the copper in between two holes. You can’t use the drillbit for this! Use a sharp knife en cut carefully between the two holes. I normally cut two lines next to each other (0,5 – 1 mm) and then I remove the copper with a sharp tip. This way you’re sure the connection is cut.

To secure the USB-connector properly, you’ve got to saw two grooves. Bend the two large pins of the USB-connector straight en mark the place where they touch the stripboard. Saw (with the hack saw) the two grooves (don’t saw any further than the first copper strip). Fit the USB-connector. Do the large pins fit in the grooves and do the small pins fit nicely in the holes (the cut copper should be in between the four small pins)?

Your ShrimpKey-shield should look like this now.

Solder these components. These components are responsible for letting your computer think this is a keyboard (I’ve used V-USB for Arduino for this).

Now solder these 10 MΩ resistors. Place all four of them and solder afterwards (on 3 places you have to put two resistors in one hole).

Continue with the rest of the left side of the ShrimpKey-shield.

Now solder the rest of the 10 MΩ resistors. On two places you have to place two resistors in one hole.

Now Solder the 100 Ω resistor, the LED, the angled pin and the pin-connector.

Connect your ShrimpKey-shield on top of the Shrimp and you’re finished!

Start using your ShrimpKey now. Click here to read how to use it.

If your ShrimpKey doesn’t work (properly), please troubleshoot it.

Pimp your ShrimpKey

To make the use of the ShrimpKey easier (especially for children) you can mark the used connectors (here you can read on how to use the ShrimpKey).

Because only paint will stick on plastic, I’ve bought these paintmarkers.

I’ve painted the connectors for grounding green, I’ve painted the connectors  for your objects (‘the keys’) yellow.
As you can see not all connectors are used, this is due to the fact that they don’t work properly.

 

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